Guide to reflective Insulation

GUIDE TO REFLECTIVE INSULATION

                  

 

 

There are two main types of heat energy that concern us when considering the insulation of buildings:-

Thermal energy which is the heat contained in matter and is represented by the vibration of the molecules.  This is what we feel when we touch something hot and the vibrational energy is transferred to our skin.  Transfer of thermal energy requires direct material contact between a hot and a cold substance so that the vibrational energy of the molecules can be physically transferred from the fast moving (hot) ones to the

slower (cold) ones.  

Radiant Energy which can pass through a vacuum, (it does not require the presence of matter). Radiant energy exists in the form of electromagnetic radiation of varying frequencies, the frequency range that we encounter at room temperature is in the infra-red.

We receive radiant heat energy from the sun across 93 million miles of empty space.  We feel the heat when we absorb the radiation and it is converted to thermal energy causing the molecules in our skin and surroundings to warm up.  When things cool down they re-emit radiant energy as well as losing thermal energy through conduction and convection.   

Heat is lost from buildings in three ways:-

Convection - when warm air rises and is replaced with cold drafts.

Conduction - when a warm and cold material come into contact with each other.

Radiation - when radiant heat (infra-red) is emitted from a warm building.

When considering how best to insulate a building we should consider all three types of heat loss.

 

Reflective insulations work by reflecting radiant heat in a similar way that a mirror reflects light.  Bulk insulators on the other hand resist the transfer of heat through conduction, by having a low density they reduce the capacity of vibrating molecules to physically transfer this kind of energy.

The functionality of radiant barriers is often misunderstood, especially when people try and make comparisons with bulk insulators, such as glass-fiber which, as we have just seen, work in a completely different way.  There have been many attempts at comparing a reflective insulator with so many millimeters for example, glass-fiber and this is not appropriate.  It is an attempt at comparing two completely different processes, in this case two completely different kinds of heat transfer.

A bulk insulator will absorb radiant heat energy until it is becomes warm (as the radiant energy is converted to thermal energy) and will then pass this heat onto its surroundings, in this way it will give a temporary respite in protecting buildings from radiant heat GAIN, but will give little or no benefit against radiant heat LOSS.

Reflective barriers will work indefinitely as they permanently  reflect the radiant heat, (away from or back into a building) and thereby suffer no cumulative build up of thermal energy, as a bulk insulator will.

Unfortunately for the reflective foil industry the ubiquitous ‘U-value’ tends to measure a materials ability to slow down conducted heat loss and does not take into account the properties of a radiant heat barrier, so comparing ‘U-values’ of a radiant heat barrier with that of a bulk insulator is not going to tell you much and is not a fair comparison.  Now if we were to use the percentage reflectivity instead of ‘U-value’ the converse would be true.  All Aluminium based radiant heat barriers would score 97 percent and all bulk insulators would score nearer to zero.  The conclusion here is that we should not cross compare bulk insulators with radiant heat-barriers.

Now, doubling the thickness of a bulk insulator will markedly increase its resistance to conducted heat transfer, but not so for reflective materials.  Two mirrors, one behind the other will not reflect twice as much light and so two layers of Astro-foil will give little additional benefit over one layer.  This is because 97% of the radiant heat is reflected away by the first reflective surface, (there will be a marginal benefit by virtue of the additional layer of air bubbles which afford some protection against conducted heat loss).  The best combination, is therefore, one reflective layer and another conductive insulating layer, so Astrofoil and bulk insulators should not be regarded as alternatives, rather complimentary parts of a system.

So why do a lot of radiant heat- barriers have layers of bubbles and others don’t?

Well, this is because Aluminum is a good conductor of thermal energy and if it were to come into direct material contact  with another dense material, such as brick or concrete, it would act a a conductor of heat, not an insulator.  The air bubble layer keeps the metal surface away from the dense materials such as masonry and concrete, allowing maximum benefit from the radiant qualities without compromise from the highly conductive nature of the metal in terms of thermal heat.

Other radiant heat barriers, such as Astrofoil Heatshield are not designed to come into contact with dense building material so do not need the air bubble layer.  A typical application for Heatshield would be within the cavity of a timber framed house or in the roof.  It comes in a perforated version so that it can allow the building to ‘breathe’.  This is important when it is used in the horizontal position above or below floor  / ceiling joists as a low of moisture vapour rises by conduction and condensation could otherwise occur.

Specific types of Astrofoil for specific applications:-

1.    We have already discussed above the use of Heatshield, and its cousin Heatehield-b-re-a-t-h-e-r-f-o-i-l in roofs and walls where the Heatshield does not come into contact with dense masonry materials.

 

     

     

2.  Astrofoil Tuffstuff has air bubbles which are stronger than most in compression and this may be used under concrete floor slabs.

 

 

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3.  Astrofoi originall may be used in many locations, roofs, walls, commercial,agricltural and domestic buildings where it can span up to 8 feet unsupported, as in-between roof trusses.

 

     

 

4.    Astro E is basically a lighter-weight version of Astrfol original.  The only difference is that it is slightly thinner and less durable lending it to more domestic applications and where damage is less likely to occur during and after installation, the only advantage of using Astro-E over Astrofoil original is the reduced cost of the material, the insulating properties being practically the same

     

5.     Astrowhite has a single layer of foil, the reverse side is lined with a sheet of white vinyl.  It is slightly lighter weight and slightly less durable than Astro-E.  It can be used in the same locations and is the preferred choice it is to remain visible and there is a preference for the white appearance internally and, again,  for the lower cost.

 

       

6.    Astrosafe is used to line the inside of heating and ventilating ducts.  It has a reflective layer of foil that should face into the duct (when used on the inside)  and a layer of Polyester foam which affords some protection against conducted heat-loss.  The outside of the ducts can also be lined with Astrofoil original.

     

 Radiant heat barriers can also be used in packaging and transportation.  Astrofoil original and tuff stuff can be used as a physical protective material for small packages that require physical as well as thermal protection.  Heatshield can be used to line the interior of transportation containers and gives an almost horizontal temperature profile inside the container which may be subject to wildly varying conditions in transit.  It can also be used to protect the contents of individual pallets, which may find themselves left outside in direct sunlight for periods of time during transit.

 

Radiant barriers work to keep buildings cool in hot climates and warm in cold ones.  They are often used in very hot countries to protect from the radiant heat from the sun, thus saving on air-conditioning running costs.

Using Astrofoil in Basements and Crawl Spaces is a specialist application and the material has to perform a dual purpose of damp-proofing and insulation.  A special range of Astrofoil products has been developed and tested under the ThermalDry brand.  These products are discussed in our other guide,’Waterproofing Basements’

For more information call  0800 413 801

 

Guide written by Raymond Foulkes M.Sc.DMS, MD of Import Supplies Direct Ltd and Basement Systems UK ltd.

Trade and specification enquiries should be directed to raybsuk@googlemail.com

Use of this guide is subject to our standard terms and conditions.

Copyright 2009 Import Supplies Direct Ltd. 

 

 

Posted on June 20th, 2009 by admin and filed under Astrofoil | 2 Comments »

Should I buy a home that needs these repairs or not? what do I do?

we found a home we like,in escrow, should close n fund soon, but we have not yet signed last final docs. 2003, beautiful landscaped front and back yard. back yard, is big with, very nice patio n slab, nice sprinkler system. house is 2230 sq ft, 4 bed, 3 bath, with loft and office. needs new carpet, paint, throughout. house needs a lot of cleaning as far as scrubbing bathrooms, windows and floors, garage has lots of mice droppings and kitchen n house has some. the inspection was yesterday and there are some things…..leak in attic at spare bathroom, small leak at near water heater vent on top of house, deck in master bed unsafe railing and floor is lil loose, rest were minor such as loose bolts, rusted frame in shower, loose toilets, dryer vent clogged, pipe vent in attic for condensation needs to be cleaned/blow out…they had a spa but it has leaks, and it kept kicking on n off, inspector said we needed to have a someone come look n give us an estimate to see if it can be repairable, may be too much to bother with. oh and noticed lots of big spiders in house that were caught on sticky pads we left out a month ago, and a saw a huge live one in the house, spiders are big and scare me too. but i guess terminex or someone like that can take care of that?
my feelings are, we love the area/city….it is on a very nice cul de sac, sits near the end of one, school is walking distance for spring n summer ( 1 mi). we would walk our kids/i would drive other wise, house is not open when you come in, like it lacks a family room, formal living lacks dining room. there is just a small living area with electric fire place that is open to kitchen, open to the sliding door that leads to the back yard. so you can see kids playing in yard from kit and living room (good). master bedroom small, but bath area big, one of my child’s room is small, plus their bath is super small. we have been looking for months, and cannot find a yard that big with privacy, there are nicer homes that are open and have move in ready feel, but neighbors house are close together and most lots are very small front n back. in the house we are looking at, we have to put in carpet + paint+ fix repairs here. hubby is very picky on yard tho, likes large yards n privacy. we would have to finance the carpet and repairs.

OR we buy a brand new home that are not yet built will be built this spring, we are renters, so no pressure on moving with in a time frame….prices are at top of our budget, a lil smaller, will lack loft and office,school is on other side of freeway, no park near by to walk to, larger living room but No formal, or formal dining,larger kitchen and eating area, may be able to choose lot, lots nice new features such as…..

All these premium features come standard in The New House at no extra cost.
In the kitchen

• Granite counter-tops
• Euro-style cabinetry with knobs
• Whirlpool stainless steel appliances
- Energy Star dishwasher
- 30” 5-burner gas range
- Microwave with built In ventilation
• 20 gauge stainless steel sinks
In the bathrooms

• Integrated sink with cultured marble tops
• Vanities with built In drawers
• Tri-view style medicine cabinets
• Dual flush toilets
• Separate tub and shower
Mechanical technology

• Tankless hot water system
• Non-corrosive PEX plumbing
• Optimized heating and air conditioning
• Home Run electrical harnesses
• CAT5 and RG6 cable throughout
Premium trim work

• Dual pane low-e vinyl windows
• Paneled window boxes with casings
• Extra tall 3 1/4” baseboard trim
• Raised panel interior doors
Structural enhancements

• 2" x 6" exterior walls with R-21 insulation
• Structural sheathing around the entire house
• Reflective radiant barrier attic sheathing
• 11” R-30 attic insulation
• Laser-leveled foundations
Outside the house

• Electric garage door opener with remote
• Vinyl maintenance-free fencing
• Lanscaped front yard with xeriscape watering
none of these repairs were disclosed and it is a short sale, bank will not pay for repair, due to they have lost over 100k from sellers not keeping up on it.
kids tub is small not bathroom, they have double sink as well.
there is room to "add on" to 2003 home in living room, in future.. out side on side is large to put a extra 20×20.

You better off buying a new one or something that does not need this much…! Anyway my advise to you as former Rochester, NY investor banks won’t give you any financing on this property. The only way you can buy it is with your own cash money and this involve lots of risk. Good luck…!

Posted on January 19th, 2012 by admin and filed under Reflective Insulation | 3 Comments »

Growing weed…Could use some help.?

Me and my friend are gonna be growin some weed, we know a pretty good amount about it, done quite a bit of research and planning for the past 2 months or so, we have an old shack out at his dads, 15 miles outside of town, so its perfect. We’re using reflective insulation, because we live in wisconsin and it is after all winter. We have the lights that we’re gonna used planned out, we know which hydroponic system we would LIKE to use…

but here are our dilemma’s. We’re not sure how to heat the shack.. like i said we do after all live in wisconsin, and it does get prettyyy fuckin cold in the winters here. but we have a shit ton of reflective insulation cuz his dad is a carpenter, so he has alot of random stuff like that which helps.

but we can’t figure out what to use for a heat source.
Will the lamps generate enough heat? We plan on growing about 3-5 plants max, nothin big but big enough for around here. if the lights would make enough heat, how many lights would we need for 3-5 plants?

That’s all i need to know for now, any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. If your gonna say "Your stupid, why risk it, do you know what that shit does to you, its so bad for you" and all that, please don’t even bother commenting. Yes I do know its stupid, I know the risk, I know what I’m doing and why risk it? cuz for 15-25k, why not.
@IrajE
Thanks man thats what i was hopein to hear lol. what would you suggest trying to maintain the temp at?

Normally, if your shack is well insulated against the wind and your lamps are powerful enough, you should be fine. The first few months might look bad, but after a while the plants will generate enough moisture to sustain the air humidity and if you keep watering them, you should be just fine.

Have fun with it!

As for your "additionnal detail", just think of the temperure this stuff naturally grows in, which is about 30-38 degrees celcius. just a hot summer day in jamaica! The main important factor is to keep the place humid, as said in some other of the answers. If it’s insulated enough, the plants themselves should do the job. If you’re not sure, the other advice posted here should prove useful.

*RE-EDIT* The day-night cycle is not mandatory. It will help the flowering, but don’t sweat it if you don’t have timers, since when your lights turn off, the heat will turn off, and on a winter night in wisconsin, that might not be recommendable. If you want to do that, you’ll need extra heaters that’ll turn on at night.

Posted on January 3rd, 2012 by admin and filed under Reflective Insulation | 4 Comments »

Reflective cooling paint or Bunnies under a hot tin roof?

I need some advice on painting a metal roof to reduce the heat of the room. Most of my house is tiled and insulated but the back entertainment room is like an annex with glass windows on two side and brick and fibre cement on the other two walls, the ceiling is gyprock. Unfortunately there is not a cavity in the roof despite it being two layer plus the ceiling so actual insulation is not an option. I can feel the heat in the ceiling when I touch it. I have covered the windows on the North with shade cloth and that has helped a little. My only other option is a reflective coating on the roof itself. I need to cool this room as my house rabbits live in this area. They are house rabbits and currently I have the swamp cooler running plus icepacks in their hutch but it is getting hotter. Does anyone have an opinion on the coolzone or reflective roof paints ???

Not sure about reflective paint but baked rabbit pie sounds good.

But most surfaces that are white reflect heat quite well

Posted on January 3rd, 2012 by admin and filed under Reflective Insulation | 1 Comment »

How safe is polyurethane insulation?

I’m insulating a room with 8×4 sheets of plasterboard/sheetrock with about 2 ins of insulation on the back. Each sheet has a reflective backing to reflect the heat back into the room and they are fixed in place with fittings referred to here as ‘mushrooms’ Holes 8mm are drilled into the wall and these fittings go into the hole and keep the sheets in place to be plastered over. I’m concerned about fire safety. The insulation material is easily set on fire. All electrical wiring is passed through metal tubing for fire safety reasons but nevertheless how safe is this type of insulation? Thanks a lot.

It sound like you are insulating and drywalling a concrete or block wall. The insulation is channeled out to accept the rigid tubing for the electrical wiring to be passed through, correct? You are then covering the insulation and wiring with drywall. This is a perfectly acceptable construction practice. As long as you do not use romex or mc cable (as they are not a fire deterrent) you are in good shape.

Posted on December 21st, 2011 by admin and filed under Reflective Insulation | 2 Comments »

How long does reflective insulation last?

I was just wondering how long does the material ?ast. Does it ever lose its reflectiveness

Reflective insulation has a metallic layer. This layer is subject to oxidation over time, thereby losing the reflective properties. The quality of the insulation and method of installation would determine if the reflective layer will last years, decades, or centuries.

Posted on December 21st, 2011 by admin and filed under Reflective Insulation | 1 Comment »

If I put reflective insulation in an outside cat house will it make it warmer or colder?

I’m sure this sounds stupid, but if I cover the inside walls of a wooden dog house my outside cats sleep in with this type of insulation, will it help make it warmer this winter, or will it make it colder:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_13353-56291-ST16025_0__?productId=1014123&Ntt=insulation&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dinsulation&facetInfo=

It will make it slightly warmer by reflecting any radiant heat that escapes their bodies, but more importantly, if they come in contact with the wall, it won’t feel as cold.

The main contribution to the cat’s comfort is whatever shelter it provides from drafts and wind. Fur is a good insulator when the air is still, or nearly so. It doesn’t insulate as well when the cold air is blowing right onto it.

I just made a cat shelter out of some old leftover 1" thick rigid insulation. In my case there was no house to insulate, the whole thing is made out of the insulation and it’s just taped together. It’s actually fairly sturdy.

Posted on December 7th, 2011 by admin and filed under Reflective Insulation | 3 Comments »

Is the £1 a roll of Loft Insulation offered by the Build Centre a Scam?

The Build Centre is offering Insulation at just £1 a roll.
I placed an order,but when I tried to contact them, the Email never got there.
Has anyone else dealt with them?

its a scam ,my dad did this and the hack into your email account, do not buy from them

Posted on November 25th, 2011 by admin and filed under Insulation, | 2 Comments »

Will loft insulation come through the ceiling?

I have installed loft insulation in my loft. Not really sure what I needed. Just used what they called top layer insulation rolls. Now looking back I realise I possibly should have put down rolls of "bottom layer" first?

If I did not put bottom layer insulation down first and just installed top layer. Will this mean the top layer fibre material might leak through the ceiling boards?

No it won’t come through.
Just make sure you’ve put in enough;
it sounds as though you my have to put in another layer in,

The current regulations under the EEC programme states that a minimum 270mm of loft insulation is required.
Remember 270mm is a minimum.

Posted on November 25th, 2011 by admin and filed under Insulation, | 3 Comments »

What kind of insulation do you put behind the walls in a shower?

I am currently in the process of removing a tub and enclosure and installing a new tub and enclosure. I have not started the installation of the new tub and enclosure, and I need to put in insulation in the walls since most of the insulation was removed during the removal of the old tub/enclosure. What insulation is okay to use nowadays? I would like to buy something that I can purchase at a local Lowe’s or Home Depot. Thanks for the help!

Standard fiberglass batts are what are usually used.

Posted on November 25th, 2011 by admin and filed under Insulation, | 2 Comments »